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 Free plans

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T2H
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PostSubject: Free plans   Thu Jan 30, 2014 2:50 pm

Hello everyone, I finally made time to put together a video showing plans and how to build my Turbo Vortex Rocket stove.

This is the actual stove in action.



Here is the new video showing the plans and explaining the build.

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wlbryce



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PostSubject: Re: Free plans   Thu Feb 06, 2014 1:07 pm

If you can share the Sketchup files I might be able to convert them into DXF files so the stove can be cut with a CNC table. Or I can redraw them in Solidworks and convert them.

Thanks
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JeffJetisoned



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PostSubject: Re: Free plans   Mon Mar 24, 2014 6:56 am

My name is Jeff and I work at a fab shop, currently working with a computer plasma cutter and have a question about your stoves. I am impressed with your ability to design them and explain how they work. I was wondering if the secondary burn would work better if it started in the back left hand side of your firebox and wrapped around the front and continued to the back right corner, giving it more time to heat up. Also, have you ever built your Marine stove or have any modifications for it to share. I like the idea of having a stove in my R.V. that has hot water, cooktop stove, heater, and oven all in one unit. Again, thanks for your time and the things you have done for this forum and the people who love contributing to better development and idea sharing. Much appreciated!
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gadily
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PostSubject: Re: Free plans   Mon Mar 24, 2014 8:12 am

hi jeff welcome to the site you could introduce yourself in introduce yourself part of the site

but heres the info that your wanting tried and tested by different mods of moving the secondary burn around the burn chamber box

http://woodstoves.forumotion.co.uk/t62-secondary-air
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JeffJetisoned



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PostSubject: Re: Free plans   Sat Mar 29, 2014 11:31 am

I cut a peice of 20 inch 3/8 mild - 6x6 tube stock today to try and test..didnt have 1/4 inch scrap laying around..thought it wouldn't hurt to be a little heavier. Thought I would try to weld in two 3 inch stainless steel pipes..(304..just what I have available)..might need higher grade...maybe even 400..dont know.. I think to be about .188 or 3/16 s thick..might not be as easy to work with as the stainless steel pipe you used. Going with your basic dimensions as I don't have any starting point. Still would be curious to know if SA would work better if it was wrapped around inner fire chamber as I mentioned or if it would work better from where you have put it..straight in(more or less). Have you any data or have you tested this before? Because of the two vent, stainless steel pipes, I thought about putting a cross section secondary air supply set up in it.. where the secondary air comes from separate controls but heats up directly above fire..dont know if direct heat, restriction, or straight- less restricted air is better for SA and especially on this model specific. Any input on this subject other than a cross reference that leaves me asking more questions than answers(no offence(sp)..just dont want to re-invent the wheel or waste time, money, and material doing so. Again..thank you for your time and everything you have done for this site.
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JeffJetisoned



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PostSubject: Re: Free plans   Sat Mar 29, 2014 12:52 pm

Sorry, also, I forgot to mention that I really dig your door latch set-up..sorry again for credits of such individual who shared it with you (what a nice web site) .. and would really appreciate someone who would mass produce these on a turret lathe or mass production set -up... and share, sell, trade, or barter with us stovies. Maybe someone has and they are available in common market; I have not seen them; if known..please forward. I mentioned doing something similar to this in the lounge (another great feature and information hub of this site) with some air control valves. I would be willing to do my part of what I can do with the equipment that I have, or have access to, to help others... and myself. Don't get me wrong...not that any members couldn't design, lay-out, and fab them up, it's what they want to do..but, to do it in a organized way (I'll use less than probably ten in my life...but who knows..maybe a thousand). I also realize that a lot of stovies want to build everything themselves..no problem..but I like the free-open-sharing-unselfishness-aspect of the makers of this site and could care less if a hinge, air valve, or latch was made by me or not. It was made by a peir, and hopefully, a friend of someone who shared similar interest and values with me. Any input would be appreciated. I'm going to light me a fire and play some Neil Young on my guitar and harp.
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gadily
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PostSubject: Re: Free plans   Sat Mar 29, 2014 9:47 pm

304 stainless steel is ok to use

http://www.bssa.org.uk/topics.php?article=42

my burn chamber 3mm and vortex flue 2mm has used only 304 stainless steel

as goes for s,a wrap around the i dont think it has been tried before sometimes due to cost or down to an experiment stick it in and found it performed much better with it

the post to the secondary air in part is to discuss other options/uses and for general questions also saves clutering up but leaves people the chance to ask questions about the design of there builds
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JeffJetisoned



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PostSubject: Re: Free plans   Fri Apr 04, 2014 9:50 am

Again, I am tore up with the math..trying to figure out if the valves I made out of a pipe that measures 1.4 " on inside and 1.625 on outside is going to let enough fresh air and secondary air in. I made the valves fan shaped that fit inside of pipe with 1/2 inch middle diameter for drilling and tapping of 1/4 inch thread. I have enough room for three valves for the fresh air on the front and was hoping one for each side for the secondary air(as mentioned before I am installing 2,3" stainless steel pipes instead of the 4" pipe he used. I like my two inch valves better but they look to big and out of proportion for Trying2Hard's prototype and dimensions. I have read to always go bigger but am limited with the size of stove I am working with. If the secondary air is not enough, I could add another valve for each side at a later time. I also like his pellet feeder and would like to do some testing with that later but don' t like the idea that it comes in from the top(clogs up the surface area for cooking or heating up water and am trying to come up with a dual feed system that feeds from each side. This might mean moving the secondary air tube to the bottom of stove, which I don't think is a big deal..the stainless steel plate could rest on them and could raise them up in the burn tube via elbow. I am also pretty sure, he has thought of these things with the amount of time and attention to detail that the video proves. Any thoughts or words of wisdom?
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T2H
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PostSubject: Re: Free plans   Fri Apr 04, 2014 11:30 am

Jeffjetisoned sorry for not responding sooner, have been pretty busy.

As far as secondary air and data..........none.

I am just a backyard hack.

I get an idea in my head and just run with it on the fly with very little thought towards ratios.

However that is slowly changing.

As for the secondary air, I am positive it can be improved and I myself am not completely happy with the results on the Turbo rocket stove.

From the sounds of it, it seems you have some pretty good ideas and a good grasp on what may work better, ppotty1 did try running secondary air up the center of the up draft pipe and then later went to the side like in mine.

I have completely shifted my thinking and focus away from the conventional updraft rocket stove and want to develop much more streamline compact versions based upon that theme.

One place that does give air to fire box ratios is the EPA website, however these really are out the door when you start adding secondary air.

What I feel is taking place with the Turbo Rocket stove is once I bring it up to operating temps and shut down the main air control to as low as I possibly can, and then open up the secondary air it then has become a gassifier.

I have measured temps over a thousand degrees which really concerns me.

A diagnostic engineer who had nudged me in this direction warned me of this.

Now with those kinds of temps one has to really consider how to ensure the stove will not have a catastrophic failure.  

I have some exciting information to share that will be posting soon which I cannot take credit for.

One of our members has been building stoves for over twenty years out of 1/8th inch 309 stainless steel and has not had a single problem with warping or degradation of the steel.

When I get the time I will post some of the conversations with photos that he has been sharing with me, he has asked me if I would do this for him.

Using 309 ss will cut my weight of my stoves in half.

You will have to forgive me, I by no means am any kind of expert on any of this.

My stoves and work are a direct result of many individuals that have contributed ideas for advancements of some of the designs I have posted.

What I am excited about as soon as I can afford it, I plan on buying one or two instruments to measure exhaust and particulate production, I have found there are a few affordable ones out there.

So with that, I have to bow out to the smarter folks on here that have the knowledge of ratios and proportions.

Looking forward to seeing your work.
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JeffJetisoned



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PostSubject: Re: Free plans   Fri Apr 04, 2014 12:29 pm

I appreciate your response and everything you have done for the developement of your stove..you don't give yourself enough credit! I really like your designs and hope I can contribute just a partial of a fragment of what you have. Maybe, via forum, everybody can make your or everybody else's design better. Thank you for your time. Stainless steel might be way to go, but redistribution of heat might be better.. and cheaper..but not lighter. As mentioned in your video..temps were reaching a grand, and you welded on a plate as an extra..that might be a sweet spot to put a riser.. and allow enough room for side intake of the pellet feeder or water coil to cool it down. I also don't think that a dual 3" vortex effect will increase temp in degrees but might make unit more efficeint(sp).."i" before "e" except after "c"..lol.. Again, you don't know how much I appreciate you and everyone else's responces. I am looking forward to contributing what knowledge I have, which is nell, compared to the people of this site and forum. Thanks again.
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JeffJetisoned



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PostSubject: Re: Free plans   Sun Apr 06, 2014 6:39 am

I have been doing some thinking the last couple days about your stainless steel idea. Don't know if you can buy stainless 6 x 6 or what the ticket is on it but thought Id line this stove I am building with some 10 gauge stainless, since weight is not a big issue for my motorhome. I've been told that stainless has a reaction when welded to steel. Bottom is sitting on SA tubes so maybe just removable fire box made from 10 gauge with shims of some sort to keep it from being in full contact with sides..I'm using type 316..just what I have. I computer plasma cut some nice 4 spoked wheels that are 4 inches in diameter for my door latch system out of 3/8's mild...look pretty cool...left a half inch middle circle in them for ready rod and a 1/4 in hole in middle of one spoke on outside to attach turning rod and bushing..will mail you one if it is something you would use or are interested in...no charge of course. Could also make them from stainless..304. Found some nice bushings at a used junk dealer for 20 cents a peice that might work or can use for hinges. The air control valves, these wheel latches, and hinges are things that are pretty commonly used for woodstoves and rocketstoves so will probably make a box of each cause it is just about as easy as making just a few. Also, for smaller stoves, I 'd like to make some different air control valves that are made from 1 inch round stock and 1 inch long with a series of 1/4 inch holes drill in around outside collar with a 5/8 or 3/4 hole in middle..drilled and tapped and simply put a bolt with 't' handle or eyelet for turning bolt, thus opening or closing series of 1/4 inch holes. Will try to get pics of some of this stuff when time allows. Any information I can have and to keep me from going in wrong direction would be appreciated. Thank you for your time.
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gadily
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PostSubject: Re: Free plans   Sun Apr 06, 2014 9:30 am

theres a reference here to do with ss and normal steel

http://woodstoves.forumotion.co.uk/t219-start-of-my-rs-build

as i have used ss for burn chamber and vortex chamber as well as the burnbox
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JeffJetisoned



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PostSubject: Re: Free plans   Sun Apr 06, 2014 11:43 am

Thanks gadily. I wish I had enough time to build a rocket stove to do testing with, but I work 50-60 hours a week, play gigs on side, garden, woodwork, 7 year old son, camp, fish, hunt, and kayak..lol..the good news..I haven't did hardly any of the welding on this rocket stove yet..still trying to build parts and come up with plan, which fellow forum member, Trying2Hard, has been so nice in offering for free, with detailed construction, and giving me a starting point, in laymen's terms, and sharing what is wrong with prototype; something I can't even fathom how much time he has into. But, the bottom line is I don't want catostraphic(sp) failure. I have had a wood burner (I mention this in my introduction), that I installed several times in different houses and honestly don't think it possible to burn house down with it unless your like a complete dumb ass. It had double wall flue pipe, proper metalbestus(sp) stainless, ceramic wool insulation, and terminated properly. I am not going to risk my son's life or mine behind a heater or stove and I have seen several models on u tube that would. I am also interested in building a forge, to do smelting with silver and copper. My friends doing an annual iron pour, building molds and smelting cast iron(usually old house radiators). They do it at great expense though..propane..lets see, without talking out of turn or having proper knowledge off top of head,, couple thousand degrees...like to do it more efficiently(sp)..with wood if possible...and another subject..Anyway, there was less than a pound of stainless on that woodburner I had as it was bricked but my thoughts most recently are to heed Try2Hard's advise.. and going with stainless steel construction..although I don't know if 304 stainless is good enough grade to go with for rocket stove. What bothers me more is I have not seen many on market. One example is the Kimberly.. sells for more money than I make in ten years...lol..Don't think it is made out of 304 with the looks of the sheen. Also would be interested in detailed construction plans if anyone has them but don't think engineer is as nice as Trying2Hard. Thank you again for your responce and look forward to seeing new post and builds.
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gadily
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PostSubject: Re: Free plans   Sun Apr 06, 2014 11:52 am

silver an copper is easy to melt down theres a aluminum posted on here which you can use to melt down in

the link i provided is the melting point of stainless steel the uk version of it

as goes for kimberly get size info work backwards with your design and vids on how it works and clean outs of them is best info that you can get
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JeffJetisoned



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PostSubject: Re: Free plans   Sun Apr 06, 2014 3:04 pm

I took a moment tonight to look at all my air valves, 6x6 mild steel tube 5/16" thick, 5/16 plates with same radius to fit inside, flush, and outside plus a 1/2". I thought I'd make an outdoor cooker for camping out of the stock I'd intended for my rocket stove. What I found was a useful peice of information...what a good mock up tool.. short of doing google sketch up. I have several different sizes of most components(sp) on a wood or rocket stove, already made. Again, they consist of hinges, latches, wheels, valves and flanges. I can try different things out with just these parts and look to see if they are proportionate to the stove I am building, not that I am intending to build more than two...but just saying for all ya stovies.
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JeffJetisoned



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PostSubject: Re: Free plans   Sun Apr 13, 2014 3:49 pm

Again.. after a few days..I have looked at several components of a rocket stove and different sizes of square and round tube stock...the ones I didn't have, I mocked up in cardboard. I also want to keep components small..like Trying2Hard's designs, and I am sure there are other stovies' trying to do same thing. I have layed some plans via dwg. cad, and found them almost useless compared to my homemade cardboard mock ups. I have also considered cost of making components out of mild steel and lining them with stainless, but don't know if stainless steel, like 1/8th inch, would keep stove from getting to hot or compremise heat factor. Should stainless be welded directly to mild or better if a washer or two was in between mild and stainless. Again, most of my plans for a burn box are 6X6 or 8X8 (1/4 or 5/16 thick). I also worry about debris gathering between the two metals and the stainless acting like an insulater and keeping stove from getting hot enough to heat or cook with. Any input on this?
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Thebigflyin

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PostSubject: Re: Free plans   Thu Apr 09, 2015 9:43 pm

well done

looks great.
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Thebigflyin

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PostSubject: Re: Free plans   Thu Apr 09, 2015 9:48 pm

PS on the sketchup to dfx here is what I have found

first you need to be in
"camera " select "parallel projection" this stopes dobble lines

then when you go to
"file"
"export"
you can select DWG as an export format in the drop down

hope that helps
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Thebigflyin

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PostSubject: Re: Free plans   Fri Jan 29, 2016 2:00 am

Looking good
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T2H
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PostSubject: Re: Free plans   Fri Jan 29, 2016 1:47 pm

JeffJetisoned wrote:
Again.. after a few days..I have looked at several components of a rocket stove and different sizes of square and round tube stock...the ones I didn't have, I mocked up in cardboard.  I also want to keep components small..like Trying2Hard's designs, and I am sure there are other stovies' trying to do same thing.  I have layed some plans via dwg. cad, and found them almost useless compared to my homemade cardboard mock ups. I have also considered cost of making components out of mild steel and lining them with stainless, but don't know if stainless steel, like 1/8th inch, would keep stove from getting to hot or compremise heat factor.  Should stainless be welded directly to mild or better if a washer or two was in between mild and stainless.  Again, most of my plans for a burn box are 6X6 or 8X8 (1/4 or 5/16 thick).  I also worry about debris gathering between the two metals and the stainless acting like an insulater and keeping stove from getting hot enough to heat or cook with.  Any input on this?
If you are going to line the stove with ss, I would fasten it to the walls by drilling a few holes and use bolts and washers.
You can always add some sealant if needed to the inside behind the washers.
Welding it really just makes it a mess.

Ask me how I know.
I wound up just laying a piece of two mil stainless on the floor of the firebox and that was sufficient enough for what I had going.
It will warp like crazy but after a few burns it pretty much lays down.

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gadily
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PostSubject: Re: Free plans   Fri Jan 29, 2016 10:21 pm

if your going to drill it you might as well mig weld it but you dont have to do like t2h is saying

but i do prefer doing it this way
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