Cook Shack RS Heater

I am new to this forum and wanted to show everyone my first RS build. It is made from a 20# propane bottle, 3"X4" burn chamber, and 4" riser. It is built to create a vortex in the riser and have heated secondary air. I got good heat from it, 1000+ degrees F, but had difficult starting it. I would have to heat the tube at the base of the flew to start the draw. So like many of you on this forum it is modification time.








https://vid1065.photobucket.com/albums/u394/ggooch3/Mobile%20Uploads/6A5E5E3B-68CE-4A22-A536-0B1B56C9EDFA_zpszexlan0w.mp4

nice rocket stove build there

ive made the pics smaller and also added your video linked as well i hope you dont mind

i note 580 on the system which isnt that bad chimney is fine but do try to light it with a higher chimney it gives different results when lighting your system as i found out myself

query did you weld the seal strap on the top part of the gas bottle if you did try not to do as that way may break the seal on the lower part as the heat expands the metal

what happens when your refilling the system with pellets do you have to be quick to refill up or can it be left open a bit longer as you fill it before reseal with the cap on top

Thanks gadily for making the pics easier to see!

The chimney pipe in the pics was just one of four that I used in the cook shack. So total I had 12 foot of chimney pipe. I am in the process of changing to a larger chimney to see if that will help.

I did not weld the two halves of the tank back together. It has a fiberglass rope seal and slip fit.

If there are enough pellets left in the hopper there is no problem adding more. If it is getting low enough the fire is trying build up into the hopper.

I am trying to address all of these issues on a rebuild. I will add pictures and explanation later in the rebuild.

CV,

Do you have pictures or video of the building process?

Thanks

Here are some of the burn chamber and the riser.

cute

Thanks, Hitchhiker,
It is a cute little stove. I am currently making modifications to hopefully enhance the performance. It is intended to be mobile. Our cook shack at our hunting camp is about 200 sqft or about 18.5 square meters. Our shack is a tent structure so space is a premium. We cook, eat, store our food, and just hang out in the shack when the weather is bad.

I am intending on adding a copper coil for heating water which will be used for cleaning dishes, cloths and general cleaning. Does anyone have some input? I've seen some videos here and there, so I think I know what I need to do, but am always open for suggestions.

depending on what you want to use the heating element side of it for

remembering what heat your going to rob from the system vs the exit of the exhaust

2 or 3 ways to create a hot water system the standared basic version is a coil inside of the cylinder as main burn area

or you can use a primary secondary heating system primary is on the flue pipe and the coil is your main

third approach is using the main burn area where you light your sticks then to your secondary at flue point and further heating via your main burn area

remembering every pipe added ads weight to the system being used

https://woodstoves.forumotion.co.uk/t505-transfere-of-heat-to-water

CVI04 wrote:

 
     I am intending on adding a copper coil for heating water which will be used for cleaning dishes, cloths and general cleaning. Does anyone have some input?  I've seen some videos here and there, so I think I know what I need to do, but am always open for suggestions.

I have seen something like this with mass but not without. It will be interesting to see what you come up with. Be careful.

Thanks, gadily and Hitchhiker

I will be careful. I am only looking at heating 5 to 6 gallons of water at a time. Not sure if it will self circulate or if I will need a pump? Thinking of using a plastic water cooler as the storage tank. Replace the water outlet with other plumbing to be the water feed for the coil and dispense the hot water. I will have to drill a hole in the lid to have the return of the heated water. I'm thinking I need a pressure relief of some kind.

you wont need a pressure relief valve as long as you leave the top loose

could you give sizes of your system

the burn chamber size front to the base of unit
the chimney flue
and your internal dimmensions of your cooling off area

you will also need to get proper average calculations of heat via a heat gun in these areas as well

top
side of unit
burn chamber
flue

with each inclusion of piping you need to know the heat lost using the water system therefore you decide where best to use the next heat area for warming our water up

the better system is a primary heat warming the incoming water and the secondary heat as top up of heat to the water
a 3 stage is much better than a 2 stage heating of water

https://woodstoves.forumotion.co.uk/t478-outdoor-wood-boiler

Specifications on my stove:
Burn chamber: 3"X4" 11 gauge rectangle tube
Riser Tube: 4"X18" aluminized automotive exhaust pipe
Secondary air: 3/4" square tube that runs up the side of the burn chamber at an angle.
Distance between burn basket and riser is approximately 4.5"
Heat chamber is 12" diameter by 22" tall
Chimney pipe: 5" to 6" nesting chimney pipe for portable stoves

I have approximately 11.5" of riser tube exposed above the insulated burn chamber and secondary air.

Sorry I haven't posted any updates in a while. I want to bring you up to speed on my progress.
Performance modification 1: I changed the heat chamber to force heat off the sides and circulate it throughout the room.

Performance modification 2: Added a copper coil to heat water.

looking great there glad of the wait with these pics

an interesting build i just hope that coil dosnt rob too much heat of the system as it heats up

im looking forward in seeing these results will be an interesting build when completed and also there testing that you are doing with it as well

have you considered warming your primary air to gain more heat at the moment or not ?

Performance modifications 3 and 4: I changed the flue size from 4" to 5" and added a primary air preheating chamber to the bottom and side of the burn tube.

gadily,
   the coil actually failed. I think it was to close to the riser tube which caused a scaling effect to happen and it clogged the system.  I now have the copper tube going into the heat chamber and back out trying to keep away from the riser tube. I added a window to the door using the glass from an oven thermometer. It has given great visibility to the burn basket.

Very neat and creative stove.
I like its looks and as well really like your heat exchanger.

Thanks T2H, I have had a great time working on it. The heat exchangers do work. I am debating creating a cowling to add forced air to the exchanger.

been looking for this post for the last week

query here what size tube did you use for the added forced air to the heat exchanger

another question how is it running between the systems that you have used

Sorry it took me a while to get back to this, but work has been crazy. Good thing I guess!!

I used 1"X2" for the heat riser tubes, then created an upper cowling to direct the air into room. I still have not created the lower cowling the force the air through the tubes. Hope to get to that soon.

thanks for that

i suspect that you used 3mm wall or is it 2mm wall on the 2x1 riser tubes

14 gage or 1.6mm on the 1"X2".