My Dyno V stove update.

Hey everyone I am posting this video for the forum only, its not going up on youtube for all to view.

I deleted the video I had up, new one coming up soon with the test of the pellet feed, it was a success!

Looking great! Can't wait to see the burn.
Jack

wire mesh tight enough to keep pieces in? you going to try corn too?

and will hopper gas early with pellets?

I hope I'm wrong, but.............

Any flow system for pellets smaller than about 2.5" and you're going to have problems keeping the flow of pellets going. The pellets are irregular length cylinders and they like to jam up if they don't have plenty of room. Any square corners seem to exacerbate the problem. I think you're going to have problems with:
A: The small diameter of the feed tube, and
B: The tiny gap between the bottom of the feed tube and your half pipe that distribute the pellets.

I've got a 2.5" feed out testing in the driveway right now and it's having a hard time keeping a smooth flow of pellets. They jam up. My big stove uses 3.5" and it flows very smoothly.

As I said, I hope I'm wrong about your system. I'm just reporting my experiences.

Ya I thought about that we will see, if so I will just run the pellets through a coffee grinder first.:>)
I figured if I have to modify well that is what I have to do, thanks for the input.

When I see art like this I realize just how far I have yet to come. But I appreciate the videos and sharing ideas and tips on how your are going about it. The stove is beautiful.

At one point you talked about perhaps a spark screen to watch the fire from. This of course changes the air intake pretty dramatically. My question is: Have you found that doing stuff like that (opening the front such that the intake air is pretty much unlimited) changes the rocket balance such that the rocket and reburn characteristics are thrown out of whack and things dont work very well anymore? Or do you find that things work fine either way?

I'm just wondering as I think about this stuff how concerned I should be with the balance of air intake amount to other facets of the build.

As always, thanks.

What I have found is the fire fuel will burn much faster of coarse, and you still get a very clean burn due to the oxygen to fuel ratio.

You can even have an open fire place burn smokeless.

Its just a pleasure thing that is all, its nice to view the open fire and hear the loud crackle and pop of the wood.

twistedkarma wrote:

  wire mesh tight enough to keep pieces in?   you going to try corn too?

and will hopper gas early with pellets?    

Yes the wire mesh will keep them in, what you cannot see in the video is I have two pieces over lapped so the cross parts of the top layer fills the open space leaving small open spaces.

Josjor wrote:

I hope I'm wrong, but.............

Any flow system for pellets smaller than about 2.5" and you're going to have problems keeping the flow of pellets going.  The pellets are irregular length cylinders and they like to jam up if they don't have plenty of room.  Any square corners seem to exacerbate the problem.  I think you're going to have problems with:
A:  The small diameter of the feed tube, and
B:  The tiny gap between the bottom of the feed tube and your half pipe that distribute the pellets.

I've got a 2.5" feed out testing in the driveway right now and it's having a hard time keeping a smooth flow of pellets.  They jam up.  My big stove uses 3.5" and it flows very smoothly.

As I said, I hope I'm wrong about your system.  I'm just reporting my experiences.

Where were you before I started this!, Just kidding this originally was done at the request of my customer, he wanted a feed tube that he could manually add pellets as he wanted to, there was not going to be a basket or a system for it to gravity feed on its own.
I figured what the heck lets give it a try, this is something I understand that will take some time in trial and error. I appreciate your knowledge and experience and advice.

Almost there bud, looking forward to see it all lit up.

Very nice job. Workmanship excellent. Are you planing on leaving it nice and shinny or a paint job on it.

Nice stove. Looking forward to see it working and get some temperature readings. The stove is looking shiny, that is for sure. One question, is the stove made of mild steel or stainless steel? Either way, after the first fire there will be an array of oxidation colours

http://hmfracing.com/misc/tech/color_Chart.jpg

this is art man.
amazing work come to life.

Josjor wrote:

I hope I'm wrong, but.............

Any flow system for pellets smaller than about 2.5" and you're going to have problems keeping the flow of pellets going.  The pellets are irregular length cylinders and they like to jam up if they don't have plenty of room.  Any square corners seem to exacerbate the problem.  I think you're going to have problems with:
A:  The small diameter of the feed tube, and
B:  The tiny gap between the bottom of the feed tube and your half pipe that distribute the pellets.

I've got a 2.5" feed out testing in the driveway right now and it's having a hard time keeping a smooth flow of pellets.  They jam up.  My big stove uses 3.5" and it flows very smoothly.

As I said, I hope I'm wrong about your system.  I'm just reporting my experiences.

Great looking RS!     I personally have never used pellets so I don't have any first hand experience with any feed issues.Having just looked at your video and pellet feed tube design, I would like to add my .02 cents.

First, I would like to ask you what your ideas were behind mounting your pellet feed tube design the way you did? If I am looking at it correctly, your hopper sticks out past your RS making your foot print a bit larger ?

2nd, what about using round SS tubing bolted vertical on your stove with a larger size tubing, incorporating your feed tube and hopper into one? To me, I would think your Basket design is going to determine how trouble free your feed tube and hopper works?

Last, If you want to make your SS RS Shine? I like using regular old tooth paste as a buffing compound for SS. Its cheap and works Great ! 

as far as jambing up, everything will bridge. once in a while. I don t know about shelled corn, I mixed some in with chips, seemed better. but did not full hopper it.
my original design was a seven foot box tube. I still had some no feed, at 45 degrees issues.
my tube inside was rusty, some logs were tight. so testing was not conclusive to pellets and I did not try shelled corn. chips sometimes would not slide after they stopped.


could you use a long same size tube? to minimize bridge issues. put it at 50 degrees. largen it up some for volume.

Is there some obvious reasons as to why a fuel feed tube needs to be mounted at an angle in the first place?

I would think by having a vertical feed tube on top your burn chamber would be the way to go. with a large enough tube square or round, dry or moist fuel, nothing should hang up.

Like in Trying2Hards V- design, I can understand the importance of the defector basket to keep the pellets from smothering the fire.

Now this is the part that would be helpful for me if I knew the correct way to post a pic or hand drawing, to help in my design explanation. 

Lets say you have a 8"x 8" square burn chamber or larger, with a feed hopper tube mounted directly vertical on top of it. With a hole cut large enough so the fuel don't hang up passing threw your hole. Then as the fuel drops onto a  angled defector plate dividing the fuel onto both right and left sides of your burn chamber. The weight of the fuel would stop on its own leaving a air hole in the middle just under your defector plate.

I would be guessing if you were able to get your fuel to flow freely to the bottom of your burn chamber and stopping, leaving an air hole large enough in the middle to light. I cant see how you would have feed issues, in return giving you longer burn times.

This is the way I am going to design my feed hopper on my RS, because of my wanting to use small coal fines.

dkwelder wrote:

Josjor wrote:

I hope I'm wrong, but.............

Any flow system for pellets smaller than about 2.5" and you're going to have problems keeping the flow of pellets going.  The pellets are irregular length cylinders and they like to jam up if they don't have plenty of room.  Any square corners seem to exacerbate the problem.  I think you're going to have problems with:
A:  The small diameter of the feed tube, and
B:  The tiny gap between the bottom of the feed tube and your half pipe that distribute the pellets.

I've got a 2.5" feed out testing in the driveway right now and it's having a hard time keeping a smooth flow of pellets.  They jam up.  My big stove uses 3.5" and it flows very smoothly.

As I said, I hope I'm wrong about your system.  I'm just reporting my experiences.

Great looking RS!     I personally have never used pellets so I don't have any first hand experience with any feed issues.Having just looked at your video and pellet feed tube design, I would like to add my .02 cents.

First, I would like to ask you what your ideas were behind mounting your pellet feed tube design the way you did? If I am looking at it correctly, your hopper sticks out past your RS making your foot print a bit larger ?

2nd, what about using round SS tubing bolted vertical on your stove with a larger size tubing, incorporating your feed tube and hopper into one? To me, I would think your Basket design is going to determine how trouble free your feed tube and hopper works?

Last, If you want to make your SS RS Shine? I like using regular old tooth paste as a buffing compound for SS. Its cheap and works Great ! 

Well I did my test two days ago and ran it for over an hour and not one single hang up. It self fed perfectly. I have to agree with you, the reason why it may fail or succeed will be due to the basket design, I got the idea from Jeff Crutchfield and his design has worked flawlessly for over a year now and no back ups. I have to make some slight changes to my basket and will post a video soon on the test and the minor changes I will be making.
The feed is angled off to the side of the stove slightly to keep the pellets from the heat source. That was the idea, it did not add much at all to the foot print.
This was all taken into consideration from the very initial design, I fully intended and designed the pellet feed at the same time I designed the stove, I just did not show the design. I want it to be modular which it will be, you can run wood sticks or pellets.
Some prefer pellets over sticks so I figure I would offer that option.
I like the idea of loading pellets on some nights where I don't want to fiddle with loading the stove, I am going to make an optional addition to the pellet hopper to extend it so it can feed for a few hours at a time.

twistedkarma wrote:

as far as jambing up,   everything will bridge. once in a while.  I don t know about shelled corn, I mixed some in with chips, seemed better.     but did not full hopper it.  
  my original design was a seven foot box tube.   I still had some no feed, at 45 degrees issues.
 my tube inside was rusty, some logs were tight.  so testing was not conclusive  to pellets and I did not try shelled corn.  chips sometimes would not slide after they stopped.  


 could you use  a long same size tube? to minimize bridge issues.  put it at  50 degrees.  largen it up some for volume.  

I did a test on this two days ago and had no feed problems at all, ran it for over an hour. My angle for the feed tube is set at 35 degrees and not 45, as well I believe the pellet basket design which I borrowed from Jeff Crutchfield was the factor that made the feed to work without a glitch.
He has been using his now for over a year and has had no problems with his feed catching and stopping.
I am going to make a few more changes on my basket I think Jeff got it right on his design.

Trying2Hard wrote:

I did a test on this two days ago and had no feed problems at all, ran it for over an hour.

Pics/video or it didn't happen.