Need help with my Rocket mass stove

Hi all newbee here,
Looking for info and help on a rocket mass heater for my house I'm going to build next summer. I want to have a stove to heat a 1500 sq. ft. home in N. Idaho where it can get very cold at times. I want to to be somewhat self feeding and self temperature regulating. I have a basic plan of what I want and I want to make the main fire components out of heavy wall steel tubing and pipe, and the thermal mass out of concrete and some kind of filler. I have drawn up some plans that I'd like some opinions on. What is a good idea here and whats bad, I want to make the air intake open and close with a thermostat to regulate the house temperature in the winter. I'm also thinking of adding a pipe in a pipe heat exchanger to preheat the water going into my tank-less hot water system. But not sure how to add that to my current plan.
I want to cover all the concrete in river rock to make it pleasing to the eye as well and make a reclining bench out of the thermal mass over the J duct work that will be covered with cushions like a couch. What needs to be done to the floor to hold up this kind of weight. I'm putting this into an addition to my current home that I have not started it yet, so I can build it as it needs.  The purple is a pipe cut with a hole on one side and a plate welded in to make a vortex up the heat riser tube in light purple, I'm working with the 1, 2, 4 measurements principle The wood feed tube from the air inlet down to the burn chamber will be half as long as the burn chamber (D) is, the heat riser tube will be twice as long as the burn chamber.  So any thoughts;

i would put post & beam under the mass heater as far as the mass heater i was thinking about that too later from what i have seen on utube you would need a fire once or twice a day that would be nice

these are the ones im aware of







this is what happened with the updates



15,000 btu heater

posted as reference if you decide to build a plate tank



i have to ask this now and your going to have to decide which way to turn 1500 sq ft is alot to warm via a rocket burner it can be done but might be done with the old thermal design however it would mean a room would be way higher on temperature

your going to be playing with mass of a system or can be down graded to a smaller boiler system this also depends on parts and costs and wood your wanting to burn pallets or trees

gary b and ppottys, green energy, systems is viable for heating with water system

with a non tankless system comes the extra price needed to incorporate it into the system its either a tank with an expansion tank on top or you can use a tank system fed into a tankless system but has the problems if the electric fails

It seems that you have a very nice project ahead. I would like to comment on some points of your project. Lets start by the construction material. If you use all the know-how accumulated so far, you can obtain very high temperatures (above 1000C). At these temperatures for long periods of time all the materials are going to deteriorate, either steel, stainless steel or fire brick. I use plain mild steel for my stoves, so, if fire destroys some component, I just replace the component or stove. But you have a mass heater, that is a more permanent construction that requires bigger investment and I think you can build the stove in a modular way and easy access to replace parts. The J exhaust tube has to leave the heat exchanger I slightly above the height of the combustion chamber D, otherwise you will have problems to light the stove and smoke back puffing. I am not sure you can obtain secondary combustion at G but I think you can get it inside the riser tube if you inject pre heated air at the basis of the riser. Since you plan to use a vortex will help extract more heat from the secondary combustion. If you can use as well pre heated primary air, you are going to get higher temperatures and more efficient combustion. Take a look at ppotty's and Barnabe videos in youtube. About the proportions of the feeder tube, I never tried these proportions on my stoves but from empirical evidence, it seems that a higher riser gives you a more efficient stove, up until a certain point, of course.

Do not forget to make pictures and/or videos of the construction and the stove working.

That seems like an awfully tall feed tube.

gadily wrote:

these are the ones im aware of

Most all of this doesn't apply as I do not want to burn pellets, I want to burn wood.

Hitchhiker wrote:

That seems like an awfully tall feed tube.

I'm going to try to develop a feed tube that will auto feed cut wood for a longer lasting fire. I know this is kind of out of the box but that's just who I am. I've always been an out of the box thinker.

this is the update in burning wood also reminds you to implement an ash box underneath your system





twistedkarma on site here has done this build with a slopped feeding tube roughly like your design



greenenergyexperimenter on site here has done this one below

Your' still in the box.

To be out of the box, you need to ditch the mass.

Think about this, I'm telling you that adding 2 k in mass to my VW , will make it go farther.

You're telling me , that heating 2k more than your existing 15k house, is going to be more effiecient?.

Transfer it to water, hide radiant heat, (rads in crawlspace, ect) to keep heated items lower.
IE, heat rises. floorboard, or low lying items make it feel warmer, but in reality, you have to heat every thing in your house. It will transfer.

unless you are in a tee pee, or greenhouse, and then I will tell you, yes a RMH is the only way.

So lets bring you out of the box a little farther.

45 degrees don't work, verticle, and the logs still try and pass, and jamb.
60 degrees on the feed tube, works best.

I'm working on something way out of the box. I'll share.

this type can be used with a twin fire system or better known as a downdraft system