Heat exchanger build and a couple of techniques

Cutting circles can be a pain . I have an el cheapo 54 amp plasma machine from e-bay that thus far works really well. But like a router without template guides or bearing bits can be a challenge to use.

For straight cuts I use  1/8" thick strips of plywood (laminates from a hockey stick place) . These are semi sacrificial but get the job done.
The compass like  circle cutter I purchased needs to be tweaked so that it bolts through the work as opposed to resting on a point, as without this it can slip, unless one has 3 hands.
The perfect material would be : the correct thickness, easily shaped and non combustible ?????(fiberglass maybe ??)

So faced   with cutting out the rounded  bottom the  SS heat exchanger I pulled off a "covert op"   and borrowed one of the Corelle dinner plates of correct diameter

Some metalized doubled over tape held it in place, and by holding the torch upright a correct air gap was maintained(non drag tip ).

Voila:  Perfect hole. Oh yes, the dinner plate survived, smokey stuff washed off and it was returned to the cupboard    

To rejoin the 2 sections  of heat exchanger sections I borrowed some drain spout crimpers from a friend (uncledon on this site); anyway the 20 guage ss material required 2 "go arounds" and some handle extensions but it fits together perfectly.

Hope some of this is useful.
http://www.dropshots.com/Billhere#albums/stove%202

nice start there bill i like the crimpers and crimping idea as well

as it goes for plasma add ons will post some up for you that are homemade

oh im always using plates or other things for sizing more so when i measure them and they are the right size for the job

gadily:
All help is appreciated.
Thanks

try these for start off

http://www.homemadetools.net/category/cutting-torches

i like the magnetic hole cutter one

love the cheap guide as well same place but heres direct link

http://kramerville.net/mbn/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2587&page=2#Post2692

nice looking krimper lol

later uncle don

Pretty slick Bill with what we can come up with in a pinch!

Thanks all for the encouragement . Very good links gadily. The magnetic/tripod cutter looks good as it has a standoff adjustment. on thin stainless, a piece mild steel could be used on the underside to anchor the guide.

UncleDon thanks for the loan of the crimper.

Dale: what gap should I use between the heat exchanger and top of riser tube? Suggested is 2" but apparently this might not be optimal in some situations. I am not cooking on this stove although I will add a "heat shield" on top of the exchanger.

Had a idea that may or may not be lame. Could a guy(or gal) connect a steel  heat deflector with supports directly to  top of the riser tube? Sort of like an steel umbrella over the tube?

yes it can be done as tested a deflector plate at top of riser you can see on my test vids

ive used 2" at top of mine thoe i can lower it if need be

gadily:


I guess I have to spend more time pursuing this site  

you will find it here

https://woodstoves.forumotion.co.uk/t62p45-secondary-air

as i also did a night test so it would show more

Billhere wrote:

Cutting circles can be a pain . I have an el cheapo 54 amp plasma machine from e-bay that thus far works really well. But like a router without template guides or bearing bits can be a challenge to use.

For straight cuts I use  1/8" thick strips of plywood (laminates from a hockey stick place) . These are semi sacrificial but get the job done.
The compass like  circle cutter I purchased needs to be tweaked so that it bolts through the work as opposed to resting on a point, as without this it can slip, unless one has 3 hands.
The perfect material would be : the correct thickness, easily shaped and non combustible ?????(fiberglass maybe ??)

So faced   with cutting out the rounded  bottom the  SS heat exchanger I pulled off a "covert op"   and borrowed one of the Corelle dinner plates of correct diameter

Some metalized doubled over tape held it in place, and by holding the torch upright a correct air gap was maintained(non drag tip ).

Voila:  Perfect hole. Oh yes, the dinner plate survived, smokey stuff washed off and it was returned to the cupboard    

To rejoin the 2 sections  of heat exchanger sections I borrowed some drain spout crimpers from a friend (uncledon on this site); anyway the 20 guage ss material required 2 "go arounds" and some handle extensions but it fits together perfectly.

Hope some of this is useful.
http://www.dropshots.com/Billhere#albums/stove%202

HI Billhere
Which plasma cutter did you buy?
James

James:
I bought the Accurate Tools ATPC 54 . Had to bid on it on E-bay, the whole thing was about $350.00 CDN after shipping. The torch is pretty plain and is not a drag tip. Guessing I have had it about 6 months.
Has worked great for me but that said it could go "poof" at any time. So" ya takes your chances".
They are shipped from the USA after being brought in from China.
There is a website but it is pretty lame. (as in 1 page of text)
Have cut 3/8" plate no problem. Slow and easy does it. Severed some 3/4" bolts.
Best to drill a starting hole on thicker stuff.

Now if money was no object I guess I would go Hypotherm   

Thanks  

gadily wrote:

try these for start off

http://www.homemadetools.net/category/cutting-torches

Thanks for the link! We have a new ebook out: How to Make a Belt Sander. 100% free of course. Click the graphic below to check it out:

your welcome homemadetools

its nice to find a good set of info in one place