rocket stove new design

sorry about the lack of sound but i'll try to explain here-
the door will be in the front of the lower box which is the fire box.

air intake will be located on the door itself.
fire will enter and climb up in the back wall to the top and exit from the chimney.

how th create the vortex?

the upper box is intended to be an oven.

aravaron wrote:

how th create the vortex?

This is the system I will use for my next stove's vortex

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1v88Ga6BfgA

i see that your more heading towards just an oven to use wouldnt it be better creating a hob unit as well as the oven as essa and rayburn system use this same principle as well as can be used for central heating for warming of house or used for creating a hot water source instead

however the old system can be brought up into the new system all depends on your size your wanting or your needs

im going to throw some vids at you for you to see i do understand them and how they work

take note of its air wash system











from my jest of it its 2 ways i can see

either the flame comes towards the glass then goes back underneath the oven then must go down then up both sides then mixing in a vortex before going up the chimney

the other way is fire goes towards the back up and then straight forward below the oven then must go down and then back up both sides before leaving up the chimney





redrawn

ok. how about thins?



from bottom to top-
first the ash pan. i need to draw the drawer, \
then the fire box that sits inside the heat exchanger with the L shape combustion chamber and riser
and then a small oven that sits on the top of the fire box getting heat from the bottom and from the top and all around.

comments are welcome

I would keep the fire box the same size, but I would make the door slightly shorter than the fire box. This way you avoid smoke coming out.

yes , i think that now whaen the fire box is inside the heat exchanger i can make a bypass much easier.
i'll think of someway to make a bypass for the smoke go up when open the door

in this video you can see that i add a bypass for the smoke to pass (i hope) from the fire box into the heat exchanger when i need to open the front door.

you can see the total dimension of the heat exchanger and the riser.
the doors for the air intake and the air system is the same way i built my last rocket stove. except that all the air is going directly to the glass door without any small "passage" to go through.

Q- how important is the vortex?

ron id consider this type you have to use the push technique of convection so using thin box section or creating a box using convection of air is much better to use

using the method i have illustrated on the drawings will give you a much better push on convection of air into your system i would advise using 10mm between the sheets as minimum



the first pick to the left is your front view at side of your ashbox the green is if your using a side entry system of primary air the blue is rare heated convection the 4th pic is your front view with air wash from above onto your glass

now ive seen bar use via a few systems and even a pull push to allow exit of combustion gases but you have to remember your system must be sealed so your pull push device at top may cause a problem however a rear release of combustion gases is much safer than a top release

the bar in the middle is the flue to cooker control on this system

Greetings Ron.

This design is very nice and it packs all the ingredients to make a very efficient stove. Even with a bypass, I still think you need the door slightly shorter than the firebox.

I might have to start another thread, but there are some people going brick oven, mass , stoves.

I don't know internally which direction to head, thinking of kicking around this way to cook with stove in winter at nights.

I would add water tank somewhere in mass to tie into existing rad system to move heat eswhere in house.

twisted you have to weigh up which is best for both summer/winter brick and mass systems have there problems with the heat they output fine in winter as you need the extra heat but in summer you could end up roasting in hot weather and needing to cook or heat hot water for washing

i myself tend to like the esse, rayburn systems as can be used for main things cooking and heating in one machine the food cooked in the oven tastes loverly and moist compared to dry and burnt in the gas stoves or wrongly fired wood systems

try reading this to understand the systems of thermal mass

http://www.ecorangecooker.co.uk/aga-wood-boiler-range-cooker/

sweat stove. but 9k us dollars? wooo hooo. lots of brick I can lay for that.

I'll have to start quick to enjoy it this year. or maybe next.

so simple you would build it instead

Hi Ron,

My thinking is ..puting the firebox inside the heat exchanger may not be a good idea,
because heat from your firebox will heat up the heat exchanger at the point ware you need it to be cooling down.

The coals heat up the riser then you want it to cool down as soon as posible so that the smoke will fall down on the outside of your riser and up the chimney.

Maybe you can insulate the firebox and the riser for it to work better or put the chimney much higher.

If you you insulate the riser and fire box, your stove will be more efficient with a clean burn and no smoke: Bob.

Test the stove and we will see how it preforms. I still thing you have enough gap to allow gases to exit the flue.

Nice stove! Very important is that you have no smoke when you open the door to reload. What is the plate that you are using on the top of the heat exchanger?

You have been showing us videos of your stove making skills. When are you going to show us your guitar playing skills?

thanks for posting ron i like the shape of it and also the primary air spinners

the reason why your not getting good enough flame is you havent got enough coals at the bottom of the firebox once you have those its much better in lighting new wood at around 15 mins you have good embers in the firebox

could i suggest that you please use thinner slithers of wood when your first starting off your system as i see it the wood your using is a little bit big for start up and you will see an improvement when your loading up new wood

also i noticed that your weary of opening the door just in case of hot embers dropping out i suggest another metal cage to hold the wood in place infront of the glass cage about 1/2 way up the glass

Thanks!

for the guitar skills i need more years of develop :)))

and the top plate of the heat exchanger is a plate that i buy in barbeque shop that sells all kind of stuff to cook and heat .. its a very thick plate - 8-10mm

Hi Ron,
Its looking a lot better.  
Do you still have the two angled plates welded in the riser? if so they may well be reducing the size of the flue, affecting, slowing down the draw ..just something to consider.