....A TWIN CONICLE ROCKET HEATER.

:) 
Hi Guys,
 I thought you might like to watch me build a rocket stove.
Well here goes. This build uses two cones for a twin vortex, I hope to show this working as the build progresses.

Here's a short video just to get me started as I'm no camera man      

Can you give an explanation as to what you will be doing with exhaust tubing you showed?

Also if you click on the youtube icon when you post your video, you can past it in there, it will come up embedded.

 

Hi, Thank's ..sorry about the short video.

This Gas bottle will be the riser for this heater and has no need for insulation on the outside.

There are several reasons and benefit's for this 6" Stainless steel flue pipe that you see me slide into the gas bottle.

Reflecting heat inward for a hotter riser tube.
For a cleaner "2ndburn"
So that the steal riser will have a longer life and withstanding hotter temps.
No need for insulation.
The hotter the riser the more chemicals burned.
More BTUs

Just my idea to raise the temperature in the riser for a better "2ndburn" and a more efficient burn.
I have built a number of stoves this way.

:Regards Bob.

That is a great idea using a stainless steel sleeve and the bottle for the riser tube, it will be interesting to see what your results are.
Thanks for the explanation.

2ndburn wrote:

No need for insulation.
The hotter the riser the more chemicals burned.
More BTUs

Just my idea to raise the temperature in the riser for a better "2ndburn" and a more efficient burn.
I have built a number of stoves this way.

:Regards Bob.

 

Why don't you need insulation with this set up?

Please persist with the videos! It should get easier with practicz!

Regards, Matthew

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Hi Matthew,

I use the stainless steel inside the riser tube to protect the mild steel.
And because stainless steel reflects heat.
The inside of the riser will become much hotter than the mild steel gas bottle.
So this stainless steel liner becomes the insulation

It's Not hard to reach the melting point of mild steel in a rocket stove, the price of stainless steel is ridiculous. the price of good insulation is ridiculous. This is just my way around that cost.

:Regards Bob.

Bob,

I thought that the problem with mild steel was oxidisation rather than it melting. I am using cast iron which stands up to heat well but has a lower melting point than mild steel.

Regards, Matthew

2nd burn id be a little careful something i learnt from pc,s is when attaching that cooler or fan cooler to the cpu and do not use the heat transfer paste it burns out your cpu easy the air between didnt allow the heat to transfer to the heat sink and they are pressure sealed onto the cpu head with a pressure clip

with using a liner you may find that tiny little air between them will act as an insulator therefore may not transfere the heat to the outer steel

i hope it works well but i suspect that you may find your stainless steel will be no more

one other thing dont use 1mm stainless steel as you can see mine failed with it

Like the music.

 

mattinker wrote:

Bob,

I thought that the problem with mild steel was oxidisation rather than it melting. I am using cast iron which stands up to heat well but has a lower melting point than mild steel.

Regards, Matthew

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Hi Matthew,

The problem I see is, if you run a rocket stove/heater full throttle you burn out - melt, the mild steel riser just like a blacksmiths forge at full throttle mild steel will burn - catch fire. and oxidises,  you see it fall off as he strikes with his hammer.
I will run this heater between  400f  600f but to help protect it I use the stainless 304L flue. that's well over 2000f before it starts to degrade.

The properties of cast iron maybe varied, over a wide range. your bath tub I think will be Grey cast iron, and is around the 2000 - 2200f but cast iron can be as low as 1200f: Regards Bob.

gadily wrote:

2nd burn id be a little careful something i learnt from pc,s is when attaching that cooler or fan cooler to the cpu and do not use the heat transfer paste it burns out your cpu easy the air between didnt allow the heat to transfer to the heat sink and they are pressure sealed onto the cpu head with a pressure clip

with using a liner you may find that tiny little air between them will act as an insulator therefore may not transfere the heat to the outer steel

i hope it works well but i suspect that you may find your stainless steel will be no more

one other thing dont use 1mm stainless steel as you can see mine failed with it

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Hi gadily.

Yes I want it to act as the insulator, that's the point. I'm aware it will not last forever, but it will help the riser to last longer.
The stainless will hopefully not start to degrade until it's over 2000f
I don't want the mild steel riser to be the heat sink. I would like the outer bottle to be the heat sink / Heater:
Regards Bob.

Looking forward to seeing your finished build Bob.

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Hi guys,
Here is a video as I try to explain as promised my Twin Conical Riser.
This is the way I create a vortex in a riser, the fire comes from the side already trying to spin! You saw me cut the end off the gas bottle in video 3, taking advantage of the neck of the gas bottle, I cut it this way so I can put it on the side of the riser.
This starts the spin before it enters the riser, licks around the cone, in the vid I was trying to create ash/sparks to go up the riser to show how well this works. but with paper blocking part of the vortex :(
If you look you can just about see the ash vortex.

This is not how the fire box will be, just wanted to show the vortex and cone idea. When this heater is finished it will have a large firebox with a glass door.

There is another twist yet to come   


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Regards Bob.

 

Hi guys,  Second bottle cut ready for the Big weld!


  

ok im somewhat at a loss why your using 2 big pipes and a ss flue pipe as 2 i would have thought would be enough

i would also think it was big and heavy and its going to take some heating up you may spend more time warming the steel than getting your clean burn from them advantage once warm they will stay warm for a while after sort like a mass heater after the fire is out

now if you had said that you was going to do the dual vortex one for the air coming in and one for the flames coming in to then a focal point i could see the use of a 3 pipe system before going up the vortex tube at focal point

im looking at how easy to move item once built as i would kind of think you would have to create a couple of removable parts to move said item a way im considering with my rocket build a base build and a top build easy to transport around

 

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Hi Guys, Here is an update on the Rocket heater build. The Spinning Vortex from the first pipe into second pipe,ie the riser. In this video I am adding secondary air trying to find the best spot. I have a device welded at the end of the firebox so that the 1st vortex is started just after the fire itself, but when the firebox is welded in place the spin will faster and will turn into a tornado, just one thin flame that will snake to the top of the riser tube. there will be another part at the top of the riser so that the spin will continue down the outside, cooling down , and another vortex to go up the last flue. and out This all works because of the "Angular momentum" Or "Tangential". My idea is that there is no net torque involved, there is no drag so you end up with the conservation of angular momentum. as long as you continue it all the way out to the end.

Nice fabrication work Bob, this is taking shape man.

As well great re-use of the gas bottles!

Looking forward to seeing the finished project man, was thinking about your build today.

Trying2Hard wrote:

Nice fabrication work Bob, this is taking shape man.

As well great re-use of the gas bottles!

Looking forward to seeing the finished project man, was thinking about your build today.

  
Hi Thank's dale,

I have just taken a dish washer apart for the stainless steel internals for the firebox, I love to recycle.

im doing that with a fridge and a washer the fridge steel is for shelves and the washer i want the stainless steel out of it for the firebox

gadily wrote:

im doing that with a fridge and a washer the fridge steel is for shelves and the washer i want the stainless steel out of it for the firebox

  
Hi gadily,
The dish washer I just liberated is about 30"x30"x30"  when i removed it had a tar blanket on the outside. The best way to remove it, If you fined your washer has the same, is to warm it up from the inside and it comes of with a scraper.

Hi Guys,
   I will post a step by step build of the completed heater soon.

would like to see the video's, there all private

2ndburn wrote:

Hi Guys,
   I will post a step by step build of the completed heater soon.

would like to see the video's, there all private wrote:

I'll second that... seems to be a lot of those.