New build, large stove, with low exit

After my hopper, looking to be able to feed it easier. so I expanded my wood stove, and lowered exit.

I'll be RS tubbing the exit into a 100lb propane vessel more than likely.

I will be adding a top smoke relief for easier start ups.

https://youtu.be/bAxFSrVsgSQ

2 burns on it, slow to heat up. going to stuff more brick in it tomorrow.

That looks like a mighty construction. Could you please give us more details by commenting while you make the video and show us more details of the stove?

Thanks

give me a day. I want to get more brick into it, and build RS riser into propane tank.

stopped early tonight.

tomorrow, after work, I"ll finish it, and test burn .

https://youtu.be/Y08htgMIVj4
https://youtu.be/vWJ5ArrNkXs
https://youtu.be/EMucWsgb1tk
https://youtu.be/R9Z0vMk3VwE
I've only put small load in it, testing in house, so I don't want to burn all the paint off.
so far, I like it, except for the smoke when loading. I can start it off, and fully load it, and not open door up , but tonight, I was testing and looking for leaks.

Start time, 12 noon. finished at 7 .

Have to add air onto horizontal , going to enter from my box beam in rear, just on top, and let air drop into suction. Banking on air being a little colder and naturally dropping .
I also have to remove old secondary air, from woodstove days. no need for high altitude flames on this one.

On rocket stoves heaters like yours, with big fuel loading chamber, there is a problem of smoke coming out on fuel reloads. Aravaron had a similar problem and I see some smoke on ppotty1stove videos. I think it is related with the fact that the combustion chamber is at the bottom level of the fuel chamber and the loading door is too big and opening well above in comparison to the combustion chamber. If the combustion chamber would be located at top level of the fuel chamber, I think this problem could be avoided.

I would keep the secondary air from the "woodstove days" and see what happens...

at the top of the stove, i'm putting a bypass with sealing damper, to go to mid area of propane vessel.
when you want to load, simple open bypass, and slowly open door, load and close every thing.
A similar member has dual exits.
My cousins Outdoor furnace has a bypass too.
I don't think, it wont be a issue soon.

This mornings fire up , went quick, (was still a coffee can full of hot embers)
added kindling right into horizontal box, walked outside to get 4 pieces of wood, put them into chamber, and closed door, total time from kindling to 550 degrees on propane top was 15 mins .
was very happy with watching gauge move as I starred at it.
wood moister tester is due in this week, hoping on next weekend to do a btu test.

as far as the old secondary air, the bottom is ran open so much, I don't think its doing much.

door smoke issue solved, a second internal door, that is L shapped, a 7  inch opening in it,  will be enough to open it with embers, and small burn,  you can add some pieces with no smoke.  If fire is burnt down a lot, open interior door, and  add some big stuff.  

  no bypass needed.  
today's burn , great in morning, added secondary air at rear of unit, but new wood was wet, seemed to need a lot of air to get hot.

interesting about the second inside door but its a shame that you lose the glass viewing window however if your getting 8hrs burn time it maybe best to get rid of the door glass or make it much smaller instead for checking before opening of the door

just curious how big is it burn box size hight x width x length

have to give the misses credit, she says , just put the other door on this one.
that's when the light bulb went off.

I"ll have to get some dimensions up on the build.

I think i'm still loosing too much out the chimney.

so I added more brick in primary chamber to keep some heat in it, for a futile attempt to make it preform like my V bottom (it needs more heat) .

still waiting on wetness tester, getting some smoke,
options for fix
1- more preheated air on secondary
right now, hole is on top of square horz burn tube, only drawling ambient hot air from
surroundings.
fix would be one of 2 ways
A , a pipe cut in half, welded to propane vessel, making its' way to top "40 inches of heat".
B, same, but add plates to sides of propane, expanding propane expansion to back of stove,
in sense, heating up rear of stove to further festering of heat. removal of 1 foot of
propane tank steel, so it doubles expansion area, slowing air down to let it heat more.
C. Add a second propane tank, horizontal, welded onto top of riser tank, going forward,
couping it into both the top of existing , and top of stove, this would produce more
heat festering on the main stove top, bringing it to heat faster, and at that point, also
give it more area expand to . This would be L shaped propane tank, sharing a common
steel wall on the top of the main stove. possible also tin in sides in back as in step B.
D. Move riser up against back wall, and redo stove and make it like the v bottom was.

right on subject of door does anyone remember the oven used at school where it melted plastic over a former as the system had a 2 door system to it

one was the metal door and the inside had a glass door as a viewing window

sorry, meant to ask a question on that last one,
opinions on how far to mod the stove,

my v bottom worked because it was compact, and heated itself through design.

I did not design it on that principal, just got lucky.

it would depend on its advantages vs cost however could your v design be used on that new build instead of your chamber going the way it is now could it be adapted into the build you have now

as the fire chamber could still be used for central heating the second part of it could be the boost of heat for the system or create something else

gadlily, nothing wrong with V bottom, except loading it, and in safety in doing that.

the twin tubes , slow the flow down, and they heat the top of the stove, furthering gassing the main hopper.

But your comment on salvaging something, and creating something else,
is on target

But, it took running the new stove one day, I stacked bricks to shorten up fire area, so coals had to stay next to runner.
I have to either,
remove and save RS riser, and thinking of modular, and installing a small rs feeder, for small light days,
and building a hopper for larger loads and colder jan feb weather.
Modular seems to be the answere so that I can run small loads or large
Ty.

Trying 2 hard, you metioned a hybrid stove as in rocket to regular

I've got this running so ash is fine now, it's not as dusty as hopper, but haven't opened up flue exit to verify that RS is doing it after the fact. This has larger grate slots, so more ash drops quicker.

my last mod, hasn't been posted on the fix, but seems to be good at this time.
it needs more expansion time in the propane vessel, so thinking of adding another to top, or making it larger in diam. , and make it slow down more after RS riser tube.

twisted karma where is your secondary air going in may i ask as in the last vid it was mentioned at coal embers height seen a im at testing stage and your flames are good at the vortex tube and medal and try the secondary air higher at top of your square chamber before your vortex tube i presume that you may need to be 1/2" back from the vortex flue this would i think allow the air to mix much better and cause the flame to enter the vortex tube

i could be wrong as im going back to vids to check







id try another pipe in there to see its difference if it makes any at all and if at all possible blank the other secondary air off

To fix issue of smoke i moved tank closer to stove and lost secondary air. I'll do a new video to explain 2night

the secondary air was on top of the fire brick  directly above the RS horz tube,  it came in , and droped into rs air path.

 problem was, stove did not perform like v bottom,  so I rethought, and coals were not being kept infront of RS horizontal,  the V naturally did this, so it always worked, it split the flame, and went both ways. .
 
 So I modded the stove, moved the RS horizontal into the center of the stove, and V'ed the front and rear so that the logs had to fall into the path of the RS horz.  coals now build in front of the exit.
 so, smoke must go past 1500 degree coals, and flames. Sometime  This week, i'll reinstall the 2cd air vent,  into the stove right at the horz rs  point, to help burn any excessive smoke.
  the stove tonight, both stove 300 low, and 400F, and propane vessel, 300 low, and 500F,  that's a lot steel radiating.

final mods for this stove. do or die on this build.

twistedkarma wrote:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CVENl1SS7X4&feature=youtube_gdata_player

is there any chance that you could make a smaller version of this for now ?

if you can and with what you state is that you have fine dust but if you was to create a vortex using a round pipe i think that you would have a much cleaner burn that what you was having with the secondary air also there as well it will improve the pull through

as goes for the gasses escaping the wrong way when opening the door for refilling only 2 things i can think of either create a flick inside so the rushing gases escaping would be flicked away from the air entrance or have a feed air that you can open to keep the gasses inside the hopper

cant have misses burnt again

? what was your burn time via a full load

never fully loaded it, was too concerned with it getting away on heat.

I could get 6 hours and have enough coals at bottom , that just adding small pieces, would start itself up.

I lied on last vid, 1 more mod possible on mailbox top, lowering lid on chamber to raise heat in primary chamber. the high lid was nice to load long pieces, but more to heat up.

tk if 6 hrs and not fully loaded was your burn time wouldnt a smaller version do the same and at 6hrs you wouldnt need to restock it up until you had to do i would have thought this option was a better way than constant refilling of a wood burner

with this in mind i think stainless steel option with a vortex pipe would improve this system and probably have more heat to it as well i think that you might have some gas at the top that could be used but could be wrong