Kimberly Wood Stove

to be honest jeff i dont use cad i just use paint so ive looked at this design and i think it can do downdraft so heres what ive come up with so far



i would build this in 2mm/3mm steel for testing
the top red on the first pic is clearance of smoke and for starting purposes that enters into the exhaust system at the sides that starts the draw on the bottom end hole

the second pic is the view i would see it have internal looking

Can ya elaborate a little more..sorry..is the purple the exhaust with secondary air being fed from the sides? Also, what would you say would be the temp advantage by using a down draft system? Obviously, I know it would be hard to be too accurate to know precisely, but could ya give me ballpark figure..maybe 10 or 20% increase and is there a trade-off?. Does the down draft sytem burn less wood or make fuel last longer in a model like this?

to understand more jeff about downdraft the increase is about 50% to 75% more heat on top of what it produces

http://www.forgreenheat.org/stovedesign/finalists.html

The Wittus Twinfire is a double chambered wood burning stove.

it also produces more heat than normal stoves

https://woodstoves.forumotion.co.uk/t237-wittus-twinfire

the purple is the chimney but thats higher up on the system inner red is the plate to stop the ashes going down it and allow the gas instead through

i decided upon double vortex hitting chimney instead of one pipe doing a vortex would do the same i just think double air input would increase the vortex effect so sucking more on the system

the other thing that you have to decide is how your going to put secondary air into the entrance below the red bar first pic

From my little tiny experience, the draft is key in getting these types to work.  I am curious as to the effects of secondary air, whether it is a pro or con and where it needs to be added to be most effective.

as we know that downdraft gasifier can be done with/without a fan then using both of the designs of the rocket burner will create a better suction upon any system

what we do know is that straight up gives a good suction creating a vortex spreads the heat and also creates suction using both designs will provide better heat distribution as well as good suction to create a downdraft

tritowns would be better answering this one

above the system is yellow flame below the plate is blue flame the blue flame means hotter temps overall it at this point that you need to consider adding extra air ( secondary air )

the way a gasification boiler works



using a type of method of this to insert the air into the downdraft flame the 3 holes is the secondary air input primary is where the logs/wood is loaded



produces this flame



introducing more air into it look for my post in there a homemade system

https://woodstoves.forumotion.co.uk/t348-down-draft-gasification-boiler

also try viewing this

Wow gadilly, thanks for the information, which there is a lot of and I've been busy and have lots of questions but will review what ya posted some more when time allows and for this reason, I don't get to excited about starting to weld anything until I know more of what I'd like to build. I'll get back to you. I also guess I never dreamed that the percentage would be that high and need to take another look at Trying2Hard's downdraft also. Thanks again.

heres another done in sections



the blue is primary air
purple is exhaust
you have to decide best way how to insert secondary air into the red at the bottom you will decide its space needed
orange is ash box

black is the outside and inside of the round circle the 2 box sections either side are the flue system straight up with primary firebox starter and fumes quick release in red before opening the door

the top part is 2 systems i prefer to run the heat exhaust along the sides x2 before up the exhaust using the vortex method should give much more heat output

or you can just goto the exhaust pipe instead

this is untested just a thought of how it could be done using both exhaust methods of rs stoves for much better pull on the system

You have given me more information than I can comprehend in the time I have right now but I like your ideas and have not seen anything even close to them. Also, have to study information you sent last week... my 7 yr old son has been running me rampped..lol..baseball, soccer, swimming lessons, karate, music, camping, etc.. I have lots of questions to yet be answered and am not worthy of your work or designs right now but appreciate everything you've done for me and this forum. I wish I could work next to an engineer or designer that thought like you or some of the people in this forum...life would be so much easier..but instead I work with the ones who make 30 of the same part, name em all different...and attatch eight numbers and two letters to em. I think they do it to confuse everyone who has to fab or weld or maybe they think that the more numbers and letters they add to a part makes it , somehow, more important than one would need..A, B, C, or 1, 2, or 3 would probably suffice..lol ..anyway thanks again friend and hope everything goes your way!

I have lots of questions to yet be answered and am not worthy of your work or designs right now but appreciate everything you've done for me and this forum. wrote:

your welcome to ask away any questions that you like to do

i believe this forum works on the principle everyone is worthy from newbie to experienced all it takes is to ask for help in there builds

but to give you an idea i built the design of the dino v a hybrid mix of my own with the steels and its flick arounds i wouldnt release it as not my design but is well discussed with the designer with pics and videos before release

I am looking forward to doing some serious junking this week..I came across a bunch of stainless steel that is going to junkyard and think I have an excellent opportunity to intercept some of it. Unfortunately, most of it is 304...don't know how much of that type I could use for building stoves with but would rather use that than mild steel or maybe at least in some applications.

im using ss 304 but not had it at full power over a period of time as of yet

from my reading of steels 304 is quite rated high from a post of mine with the link on it however i am aware of 316 and also marine grade as well

if it lasts 30 years its done its job well in my eyes and been worth the price some are guaranteed to last 70 years and thats 316 ss from my reading of rs and stainless steel

however i have cut small corners where possible on thickness but later on i should/will know better and use a more better rated system in building a new one

I'd use 304 before mild steel and can probably buy it pretty cheep and guess it also depends where it's at on the stove..good way to cut corners and if it's readily available for scrap price or below..why not?..I'm all about saving the jingle when ya can and there is nothing wrong with free...a lot of stainless steel, cooking grade can be found on second hand market for next to nothing. Most non-stovies don't know the value and I can throw a pan upside down on the plasma table just as easy as flat stock. My sister works at a restraunt and the owner bought new chaving pans made out of stainless and she give me about four or five of them and I only have two left in my kitchen as I squandered them away in my earlier years...makes me sick to think I probably used a couple of them for oil pans or to catch grease off my bbq before it hits the newly built deck I had..lol. Also..I know it isn't discussed much in this forum, but other precious metals are great for trade. Yesterday I found an old electric motor in the junk...easily scrapped, cut off wheel and I had a sizeable amount of copper..which I can trade or sell. last I checked a copper penny thats 1981 and older has roughly 2.3 cents worth of copper in it...but price is down right now I think.. it will go up in winter. My friend works at a saw mill and says they are having problems finding logs..he works at a barrel making factory building whiskey stuff...which is another great reason for being a member and supporting this great forum and studying and sharing ideas, freindship, resources, and energy. Our natural resources in the world may not run out in our life time but they may be in short supply and become very expensive. Foreign markets, like the more populated, have been paying top dollar for them driving the price higher. What is price over there, Gadily for metal and is it easily available or can you find it on second-hand market? Also T2H..are you in the quagmire of the big fire out there on the West coast and is there a shoratage of lumber because of it? look forward to hearing from ya all in future...Jeff

you can find it on the second hand market however too many scrappers due to price been so high here
im lucky in a way i know a few of them so can get a few deals from them however not always as they want the price and greed sometimes gets in the way
as goes for new at merchants its not that bad or by using other search engines to find the stuff i want otherwise its down to price and if ive got it at the time

5mm sheet steel 2metres x 1 metre 80kg is 85.68 new
150x150mm (6" x 6" ) x 5mm box 192.00 new
25x25x1.5 erw box 10.00

Gadily..I have given a lot of thought to this particular model of a stove and wish I had working model to see before I build. Also, I like the down draft system and probably don't know enough about it to build one or know if it will work on a stove that small and where to make metal thicker(on this Kimberly, looks like he has mass of weight on bottom..maybe 3/4 or 1''). Is it hotter on the bottom or is it hotter on top. I don't want exhaust to come out of top, so should it come out of back top or back bottom..maybe it should be in back middle..don't know. Would think wherever exhaust comes out is where the concentraion of heat is going to be. I think I should look at just regular round wood stoves and might be worth a trip to the city to do so. I am even torn on size and have drawn up both 8" and 10" flanges. In a nut shell, if you come across anything more on this "round and small" concept, please keep me in mind. I appreciate everything you've done for me and this forum. Thanks again and have a good weekend.

with this model most of the heat is at the top so is top heavy if you take a look at the kimberly models it works by allowing air in underneath and also has a slide part for in going air to the system however the kimberly does use angles to create a smokeless burn something on the lines of the dino v concept however the dyno v uses the gasses to reburn you will note from my video the hottest part wasnt the entrance from the fire to secondary air but lower down the system at the gasses feed back area

with the downdraft method you would heat up the incoming air before entering the fire like ppottys version

if i had that delivery been correct this would have been built and tested but wrong materials i couldnt use so had to send them back again

I looked at some new videos frrom the Kimberly that I haven't seen and now am thinking about inner jacket made out of stainless and putting an outer jacket made out of mild. I think it will hold heat better and I don't like the idea of the stove not looking good after it has been used for a while and I think some of Gadily's drawings show this or I misinterpreted. Maybe can put insulation or k-wool in between and heat will be more concentrated where needed, which I am not sure where this should be yet.